Guys and gals, here I have a little educational clip for you to watch that my friend showed me. I personally did not know about such a rare muscle car at all. It’s worth mentioning that only 1631 of these cars were built in 1970 and they are not even that expensive to acquire! In fact there is a spoiler clone for sale right now on eBay.
I’m currently in the middle of building my 79 Corvette 350 Chevy engine more powerful. Considerably more powerful – before it put out just about 250 hp or so. I’m looking to get at least 350 hp out of it. Hence I shall build a 383 Stroker out of it and need to get a stroker kit. So here I am now – the engine taken almost completely apart and the parts I’m going to use for the 2013 driving season are:
Rochester Quadra-Jet 850 CFM carburetor, rebuilt. I might replace this but not sure yet.
OK quality tested 58 cc factory GM heads from a 305 cid engine, ported; currently stock 350 head valves, but might install larger ones
Hooker Headers ceramic full length headers
I’ve decided to build a 383 stroker out of this engine and now I’m deciding which stroker kit (also called rotating kit in Summit catalog etc or rotating assembly) to get. I’m going to limit my budget somewhat and get the components I need, not what’s the best of the best. I still want to get the best for the buck. First of all I need to decide whether to get forged pistons and crank, just forged pistons and cast crankshaft or hypereutectic pistons and cast crankshaft. At first it might seem that whenever you have the money, go for the most expensive stroker kit – everything forged. However, that doesn’t seem to be the case. It’s not just about what’s more expensive, it’s again about what you’re going to build. It’s quite simple with the crankshaft – forged is stronger and can live with more hp and RPM than the cast version. Still, professionals say that forged steel crankshafts belong to the racing world – a street machine rarely needs one. It’s a bit more complicated with the pistons. I’ve done some research and these are the main things to know about what pistons to get when buying your stroker kit:
ligher in weight – less stress on rods and crankshaft
absorb / dissipate more heat, therefore better for power adders like turbo and nitrous
expand more with heat, need more clearance in the bore
due to extra bore clearance needed, they rock in the bores more than cast pistons and cause quicker wear for piston rings and other components
much more tolerant in detonation conditions
more expensive (although not too much!)
detonation can cause holes melting into pistons
also better in case of higher compression ratio
softer and wear out quicker than cast
HYPEREUTECTIC PISTONS (CAST)
do not expand that much with heat, therefore tighter bore clearance is acceptable
smaller wear on piston rings and other components due to less rocking in the bores
detonation and other harsh conditions could make them crack – more serious for the engine than melting!
harder material, therefore in good conditions they last longer than forged pistons
As you can see, both pistons have their own advantages and disadvantages. It is said that whatever you put into your engine, it’s crucial to use good oil and change it once it gets too muddy. Also a lot of importance is put on the connecting rods – it’s better when they are made of forged steel. Then they will stay round for longer and again, are simply more resistant in harsh conditions and won’t bust so easily.
Another question is – what manufacturer’s stroker kit to get?
Talking about the budget stroker kits, there are two main producers – SCAT and Eagle. After going through lots of topics in the forums people seem to consider SCAT components as better ones than Eagle. However, there are plenty of happy Eagle users around. Personally I’m thinking of getting a Scat stroker kit since that’s what most people seem to be prefer. I’m no expert yet and I better listen to the opinions of the professionals around.
It’s also very important to have the crankshaft balanced well. You can buy an already internally balanced stroker kit and it seems to be around 200-300 dollars more expensive than the non-balanced one. People still say that even if you get the balanced crankshaft, it should be still checked. They also say that for example Eagle non-balanced kits rarely need any mallory added and they are almost identical when they come out of the factory.
So, at the moment I’m still in the decision phase but I’m quite sure the stroker kit will be as follows – SCAT made, forged pistons and rods, cast crankshaft.